FIND THE RIGHT CARE FOR YOUR CURLS
If you are just starting out with curl care, you could certainly need a little jump-start to find out what the natural curls actually need. Since everyone has individual needs, there is no one-size-fits-all solution.
Those who have made or are in the process of transitioning to their natural hair texture know how difficult it can be to find the right products. In the long run, constant trial and error can be expensive and frustrating.
WHAT REALLY MATTERS?
We want to help you get to know your hair a little better. Your curl type does not play the most important role when choosing a product. Another component is essential for the optimal balance of shine and bounce: the porosity of your hair.
This term has certainly crossed your path in many posts. The porosity indicates how closed or open the cuticle of the hair is and how it can absorb and store moisture accordingly.
Surely you have already stumbled across the term "water glass test" or have heard of it. According to reports, you should be able to find out what porosity your hair has. We want to be completely honest with you:
there is a lot more to it.
We do not recommend the water glass test to find out your hair porosity. This test can be unreliable .
The water glass test can be unreliable for the following reasons:
- It is possible that you have several porosities - only one hair is analyzed in the water glass.
- Porosities can change over time if the hair has been chemically treated, dyed, or heat treated, or if your hair has already recovered.
- Hair elasticity, which also plays a vital role, is neglected here.
- The application does not always run correctly because the instructions for the test are not clearly communicated. The hair or strand should be clean and dry for the test.
Instead, your observation skills are now required to define your porosity. You can then choose specific products with which you can achieve fabulous curling results.
HOW DO THE POROSITIES DIFFER?
In order to support you in the analysis, we would like to explain to you how the current porosity of your hair comes about. Your genes also play a role alongside the damage done to the hair over time. When choosing a product, the condition of your hair is crucial. For example, hair that has been damaged by sun exposure feels different than hair that has been damaged by paint or chemicals.
The porosities are largely divided into three categories :
Low, medium and high porosity. To make it easier for you to check, We add more intermediate categories between the three categories and label them with numbers from 1 (low porosity) to 5 (high porosity).
LOW POROSITY
1 degree
You have low porous (1st degree) hair if your hair has hardly been damaged at all - neither with bleaching, chemicals nor with heat. You can tell how supple your hair is when you run your finger along a strand. The cuticle layer of this strand therefore has no "notches" and is healthy. The hair absorbs water very slowly, since the cuticle layer lies close to the hair marrow. Accordingly, they also need an enormously long time until they are 100% dry.
Our tip: Deep conditioning with a heat cap/with heat: In order for your hair to absorb the ingredients of your deep conditioner, you can add heat during the working time. This opens the cuticle layer and the effect of the deep conditioner is more effective.
Did you cut your hair short or get rid of damaged tips and split ends? Then you can also assign yourself to the 1st or 2nd degree.
LOW TO MEDIUM POROSITY
2 degrees
We classify the second level between low and medium porosity. If your hair has been straightened from time to time or treated with little color (e.g. with a light tint), it can be classified here. They are still quite healthy, easy to disentangle and quite strong because the cuticle is still intact.
MEDIUM POROSITY
3 degrees
Your hair has medium porosity if you have dyed it up to 5 shades lighter or darker, if it has been bleached a while ago or if it has been damaged by permanent straightening. They are still able to absorb and retain the right amount of moisture. To compensate, you need a restorative care in between, either with a protein-containing deep conditioner or styling products that contain proteins.
Our tip: With healthy and medium-porous hair, you can work with light proteins, such as silk amino acids, to find a good balance. You can achieve great results, especially with a deep conditioner containing amino acids.
MEDIUM TO HIGH POROSITY
4 degrees
You can classify yourself in this area if your hair is dyed about 7 shades lighter and is severely damaged as a result. Because the cuticle layer is damaged and there are many gaps, the hair is weaker and can break off. It can also happen that your regrowing hairline is less porous than your ends, which are still colored and damaged. This can lead to frizzy and dry hair in places. In addition to your shampoo and conditioner, your hair will need styling products that regenerate your hair structure.
HIGH POROSITY
5 degrees
Has your hair been treated with high heat for years - in addition to chemical color? Then they have a relatively high porosity. At this point, the hair feels very tough and is barely (or not at all) surrounded by the hair cuticle (the outer layer of the cuticle) . They absorb water like a sponge, but lose moisture just as quickly. This makes your hair more susceptible to damage and absorbs, for example, chemical colors, heat or sunlight more intensively. They are very limp and break off quickly because the hair consists only of unprotected hair marrow.
Our tip: Proteins rebuild and nourish your hair. Therefore, the protein content should predominate in your routine . So that your hair - especially fine hair - does not feel weighed down, you can use light products (e.g. protein foams or a light gel) to seal your hair.
THIS IS HOW YOU FIND OUT YOUR POROSITY
How do you know what porosity your hair has?
In addition to the properties listed above, you can perform the following test:
Dampen 2-3 different strands with a spray bottle and watch them absorb the water quickly or slowly. Important requirement: Your hair should be well cleaned and free of products so that the results are clear.
Low porosity
You see how the water stays on the hair and is only sucked up very slowly.
Medium Porosity
Your hair absorbs water at a normal rate and retains it well because the curls are hydrated enough.
High porosity
Your hair absorbs the water super quickly and is immediately thirsty again because the water is released again quickly.
WHY DOES ELASTICITY MATTER?
Besides the property of porosity, the elasticity of your hair is also important. Low or high elasticity can often be caused by an imbalance in moisture or protein balance.
This imbalance can result from the wrong products and you lack definition, volume or shine. As a result, your hair feels strawy, frizzy or limp.
From the interplay of elasticity and porosity, you can derive what your hair needs.
Ask yourself the following question and watch your curls very closely:
Does my hair need more bounce and definition?
Or do they need more moisture and shine?
The answer to these questions is a useful guide to achieving the perfect balance (on your laundry day).
THE CONCLUSION
Armed with the essential information, you can now examine your hair. Of course, the experiences and analyzes can vary, because we would like to repeatedly point out that each of you is individual and has different needs. Our tips serve as a guide and guideline so that you don't get lost in the information overload of the world of curls.
Take the time to observe your hair and how your curls react to products that don't give great results or what they look like in their natural state without products.
Have you already been able to determine your hair porosity?
Let us know in the comments - tell your curling story and share your experiences with us!